Green Source Restaurant Review - Company Cafe

Aug. 2, 2011

By Holly Haber    

Organic-foods restaurants are in short supply in Dallas, so Company Café and its fresh, tasty cuisine are a welcome addition to the landscape of Lower Greenville Ave. Company Café sources its food as locally as possible and “80 to 90 percent” is organically grown, according to restaurant owner Stephen White. Burgers are made of grass-fed beef or buffalo, salmon is wild caught, and gluten-free options abound – even in the dessert case.

The casual bistro was busy with an eclectic crowd including a birthday party of teen girls when my son and I stepped in on a Thursday evening and seated ourselves at a high-top table. A waiter instantly appeared.



My 15-year-old loves tomatoes, so we agreed to start by sharing the Lemley tomato salad with burrata cheese from Dallas Mozzarella Company. The menu described “tomatoes tossed with fresh basil,” so we were surprised when White presented a plate of vivid red- and green-leaf lettuce sparsely circled by red and yellow grape tomatoes and topped by a hunk of cheese. It looked like a green salad, not a tomato salad. “Is that enough tomatoes?” White asked anxiously. “The chef said it’s perfect but I think it needs more.”  We agreed, so he sped back to the kitchen.

Meanwhile, we tucked into the salad and discovered it really was delightful as served. Accented with sprigs of basil and mint, the greens were crisp and lightly dressed with a rich balsamic vinaigrette. The tiny tomatoes were warm and juicy as if they had just been picked, and everything was balanced by the soft, mild mozzarella that oozed cream. It reminded me of the early 1980s when organic produce was noticeably more flavorful than conventional fare.  We gobbled the extra tomatoes that White brought in a cup, but the real problem wasn’t the composition of the salad, it was misleading nomenclature on the menu.

For his main course, my son the hamburger fiend naturally went for a grass-fed beef burger topped with cheddar. The waitress offered a gluten-free bun, but he stuck with wheat. It arrived picture perfect with a side of hot, crisp sweet potato fries.  “It’s one of the best burgers I’ve had,” he decreed. I took a bite, and it was a great burger – big, juicy and flavorful. We both loved the fries dusted with flakes of sea salt.      Photo (c) Company Cafe

  

Going for Omega 3, I chose the smoked salmon, which was tender with a clean flavor and topped by a sweet and spicy glaze. The side of wilted spinach was vivid green in appearance and taste, and the generous dose of cauliflower mash enriched with garlic and cheese was a welcome alternative to carbo-loaded potatoes.

It was impossible to miss the tempting array of cakes displayed in a case by the front door, and there wasn’t a chance my son was passing up dessert. We walked over to peruse the gluten-free baked goods,  including carrot cake, peanut butter cake, Italian wedding cake and a marbled frosted “mystery” cake.
White described the mystery cake as tasting “like an ice cream sundae,”  and he gave me a free taste. He was correct – it’s a delicate chocolate sponge cake with chocolate sauce and whipped cream frosting. It was good but couldn’t compare with the peanut butter confection – a blissful blend of chocolate cake with peanut butter mousse and frosting. It’s reminiscent of Stephen Pyles’ signature “heaven and hell” cake, but sweeter and fluffier. Me, my son and my cavernous sweet tooth adored it, but some might find it too sweet. Certainly it’s big enough to share.

Prices are reasonable: The final bill before tip including two Maine Root Sodas and one slice of cake was $50.88. Service was extremely attentive, with plenty of wait staff plus White frequently checking tables.

Company Café also serves breakfast of cage-free eggs and such and lunch with lots of salad options and stocks a full bar. Visit www.companycafe.net to peruse the menus. This humble little gem is worth supporting.

 

 GreenSource Photo: Company Cafe at lunch

 

Holly Haber is a Dallas freelance writer who contributes business and lifestyle features to Women’s Wear Daily, Dallas Morning News and other publications. She has been concerned about the health of the planet and its inhabitants for decades. In fact, her first professional job was managing the Human Bean Organic Food Co-op in Baldwin, N.Y. , in 1982.
Comments or suggestions? Contact: hollyhaber@sbcglobal.net

(c) copyright Memnosyne Foundations